Bracing on tandem subframe

I got bracing done on tandem subframe, I cut a circle in some diamond plate to cover hole in coupler and I added topcaps to main gooseneck uprights, still need to cleanup forward tandem slide brackets. Will be reversing polarity on welder today to weld all overhead welds. Sherwin Williams is getting me my primer and paint, heavy duty industrial, I'm not spraying in my shop and getting unwanted paint and primer all over my equipment so I've specifically told them I need to roll it on...Looks like it will be a two part mix on paint. Information forthcoming...

Excellent hole job...

Magnetic Drill and 3 inch annular cutter

Jack

Both jacks

Christmas 2015

Well folks time certainly flies. I've been working and playing with gooseneck as time permits. Unfortunately, I have not been very fair with posting. However, most everything I've done I recorded images of. Frankly this will be a tedious process to stay in order and update every detail. I rented an electromagnetic drill from Sunbelt rentals, (ordered an annular cutter for $108.) thinking I could put my holes in the frame members for the sliding tandem set up. Unfortunately the drill was trash, worn out and couldn't make an accurate hole. Then I bought one, By the time it arrived I had purchased a fairly comprehensive set of annular cutters. I'm good now with 7/16-1 3/8. I drilled my holes at 1 1/4 and used 1 1/4 pins. (clevis pins)  At this point I have jacks welded on and obviously I could have installed them beside the uprights for the gooseneck structure since I have a magnetic drill to drill through the I-beams but here's my thinking; if something were to get damaged at some point, what would be the easiest way to remove a jack or jacks? I decided to cut some 4" channel and weld those onto I-beams for sort of a jack pad because the channel could be cut off by any means available without damage to I-beam or Jack. So that's what I did. Currently I am still very busy with outside work, gave a bid today on a full exterior repaint an hour out... (Christmas Eve) I will get images as soon as I have any feeling for it. I'm looking to wrap up some small details as time permits and start on the industrial primer. I'm going to roll it though I would prefer spraying because I don't want spray all over my equipment/shop. I'll roll everything except the main frame tops. Then I'll cut every piece of 4" channel for my bed frame and stack them in preparation. As soon as  a few days come with no possibility of rain, I'll pull the trailer frame outside early one morning, set up all bed frame parts and weld it all together, hit it with a wire wheel in the grinder and prime it all at once, hopefully before dark.
 I ordered (pristine) diamond plate steel for the bed and will use the same procedure leaving part of bed frame unprimed until sheet steel welded on, then finish primer including  both sides of sheet steel. That my friends is a tall order for one man in one day...
Images coming soon!!!

Thinking

At this juncture, considering I already have a completely separate sub assembly, how cool would it be to have sliding tandems like a big truck trailer, sure it may be an odd case to actually need to move the tandems forward to accommodate a load of some sort but the simplicity of it at this point is hard to resist. Unfortunately, I do not own a magnetic drill (wish I did) but I may be able to get hold of one and bore the 1" holes in the tubing for pins. I think I will buy some 2" X 3" .25 wall angle for tracks and weld to mainframe. If I'm thinking correctly, I can only have half the space inside the subframe for movement forward or back. So! I will have sliding tandems able to move forward 33 inches...

Tires mounted

Positioning subframe with axles

I jacked up the subframe as a unit with axles and used two hydraulic floor jacks to position under mainframe.

Mounting axles

I stood the subframe up (heavy) and lined up the first axle spring eyes and slipped bolts in them. I lined up the second axle and lowered the subframe onto springs, installed bolts.

Deciding how to mount axles

I have a 6 inch boxed main frame and the bed frame I anticipate building will lay directly on top of the main frame and be welded, therefore, I do not have enough clearance for the tires without some form of spacing. I can see I need a minimum of 4 more inches. I went to the steel company and picked up two pieces of 2" X 5" rectangle tubing .25 wall. 72 inches long each. (I asked the fella if he could cut them to 72 inches precisely, I got them at 71 15/16 each, heh, not too bad)

During the drive I decided the best thing to do was to weld spring hangers and equalizers to tubing first, progressively that turned into welding a completely separate subframe, cut my channel for crossmembers, weld together subframe.

Axles

Okay folks, I managed to get a day to do my own stuff. Here is an image of the axles 7,000 lb each, 8 lug on 6.5 pattern

Trailer parts

Well People, I have found what appears to be a very good company in Texas offering trailer axles and wheel assemblies at very competitive prices. I ordered my axles today from another company and then I found this one. I'm giving them a mention because I was impressed speaking to them, and as soon as I need something I plan on calling them, stay tuned...

http://www.trailersupplysuperstore.com/

Sorry people, been busy, I own/operate a painting company in middle Tennessee.

accuratepaintersplus.com

My gooseneck trailer will continue as time permits... Please check back... Nothing will be left out in this sharing venture.

JD

                                           Bulldog   BX-1   Coupler

Working...

As you can see, even with plasma cutter, cleanup is still required to mate surfaces...

Test fitting coupler

Setting up

Note string from center of coupler, it goes to the center of the uprights.

Ready to weld.

GN forwards

I cut and screwed together some 2X4's to support forwards for trial fitment.

Four top forwards in place.

Here is the reason for using a square coupler. I used a plasma cutter to cut these

quarter circles. Next will have square coupler. (experience)

Gooseneck progress

I seperated my boxed mainframes and leveled at 58" center. (7k axles with 58"
spring centers)
I looked at 10k axles, oil bath Dexters, and at $1150. ea. I figured I'd go with 7k
$400. axles to start...($750 for 3k more X 2= $1500 for 6k more)
Of course I would prefer tandem duals, who wouldn't? (trying to be reasonable)
Brakes on both axles.
I figure if I change my mind I can make special brackets later for different spring
centers. (have learned from axle manufacturers that if you move or change spring centers on axles in ANY way the ratings change for capacities)
I'm just including all my thinking here for whoever may be interested...
I cut and welded 6" channel crossmembers (4 total) at 57 lbs each.
Mainframes are 520 lbs ea, X 2 = 1040 lbs
Mainframes with crossmembers are 1268 lbs

Set up conveyor for horizontal bandsaw.

First two crossmembers.

Bought I-Beam, 576 lbs @ 18 lbs per foot.

cut uprights.

Welded two uprights and inside crossmembers.

(I cut 19 degree angles on top of uprights which is a matching angle to the

forwards connecting GN coupler, strictly aesthetic)

Beginning Deckover Gooseneck

I've decided that the absolute best all around trailer for hauling anything from cars/trucks to equipment such as large horizontal bandsaws, forklifts, tractors, shipping containers or just steel from foundry is a Gooseneck deckover. It's obvious that when the trailer is connected directly above the pulling vehicles drive axle, it will be inherently more stable, as well as, easier on the towing vehicle, safer and easier to control.
Thus, I've determined after looking around at other trailers and PRICES that I need to build my own. I don't have any plans, I searched for some and it couldn't financially make sense. I looked at quite a few trailers and I've chosen to build my own from what I've seen and what makes sense to me. I bought some steel channel, both 4 inch (6.5 lbs per foot) and some 6 inch (13 lbs per foot) both in 20 foot lengths. I looked at some of the I-beam used in these commercial trailers and frankly it sounds tough when they write about it, but if you go look, it's actually some thin stock (low weights per foot) so I decided to take 6" channel and face two together and weld, that way it's completely boxed, has two vertical sections etc. Yes, it's 26 lbs per foot, but very strong! For those of you that realize it, yes I am overbuilding it for my own piece of mind.
I have mixed feelings about welding the mainframe channel solid, on one hand, if I leave them stitched (as I call it) water can never be trapped inside and isn't it really sufficient as it is? On the other hand, wouldn't it look good welded solid and ground down to look as though it's made that way? Though I believe it would be stronger welded solid (at a greater cost) I don't believe it's necessary.