Well people, I'm getting into looking for my truck pretty hard. I've got a dealer in north Georgia at $46,565. and another here in Tennessee at $46,572. However, the Chevrolet dealer has quoted $45,556. and the Chevrolet has a couple more options. These are cab and chassis models so I will probably be building a bed rather quickly if I do it. I'm getting covered up with outside work, busy, but I am seriously considering the truck. GM isn't offering the incentives,($1750.) Ha! GM can do better... I'm researching and hoping to find a little better deal... Tax, title and license puts me back over $50k. I'd like to stay under that if possible, plus, it has occurred to me that now may not be the best time due to new emissions regulations bogging these trucks down... Could be wise to wait on more reviews. I looked at a new medium duty M2 106 crew cab 4x4 Freightliner that costs more than a class 8 Volvo (new) so that made me stop thinking about a medium duty truck instantly.
Does anybody have any ideas about how to buy one of these trucks any cheaper?
Just rambling...Ordered winch today, gave bids and contemplated welding on receiver for steel mounting plate I need to make for winch. Re-thought about making ramps hydraulic... Like idea, don't like the weight...
Monday, May 16, 2016
Sunday, May 15, 2016
Ramps
I decided to work on trailer ramps yesterday and today. I cut and welded (8) eight 1.25 inch square tubing support tubes for diamond plate load /travel surfaces on each ramp. Then welded diamond plate and ground smooth rough areas then primed. During initial calculations I decided to leave an 1/8 inch space to make ramps come flush with bed only after adding some type of cushion to prevent metal on metal contact from ramps to dove. It is almost time to decide what sort of cushion to obtain. I welded on side triangles, previously sheered with other pieces, After working it out in my head I couldn't see another sheet beyond the two required to cover load surfaces, therefore the insides of ramps are left open. Manufacturers use the side plate as ramp support but I have a complete self supporting frame. Of note: after adding the plate my assist springs are no longer sufficient and I must make adjustments. I've yet to determine the use of more springs (added weight) or cutting and re-positioning current spring catches... Both include numerous complications. I'm slightly annoyed my ramps are so heavy. I could have made them lighter and been just fine. As it stands I cannot imagine anything crushing or damaging them, it would probably take over a hundred thousand pounds and nothing like that will ever be getting on my trailer. At best I could put two 15k axles under it and it's still overbuilt for that, but never would the trailer be required to carry more than 30k. Ramps will soon be forgotten as a non issue...
I'm adding the rear plates after I cut stop, tail and turn mount holes to add additional lights to ramps. I don't think it's necessary, but I've decided higher mounted lights will be safer, and redundants are good in case of light failure... Also, it would be simple to add reverse lights to ramps as well but I have mixed feelings about them. I may or may not.
I'm adding the rear plates after I cut stop, tail and turn mount holes to add additional lights to ramps. I don't think it's necessary, but I've decided higher mounted lights will be safer, and redundants are good in case of light failure... Also, it would be simple to add reverse lights to ramps as well but I have mixed feelings about them. I may or may not.
Thursday, April 28, 2016
Update, dovetail angles...
Okay record...This is just an update, people continually ask me how to determine angle of dove... This seems to come up quite a bit. Very simple. Take the length you'd like for the dove, my example here will be five feet. (I'd like a five foot dovetail) So we're adding five feet of length to overall usable bed space, at 8 feet wide, that adds 40 square feet. I did it by the numbers. We know we have to get to the ground, I've already got five feet planned for dovetail and I'm going to fabricate flip over ramps to match bed height in travel position so that my usable bed space is all flat for hauling things loaded by forklift. (stand up ramps are much easier) I suggest making a mock up with wood, maybe 2X4's 10 feet long. The angle depends directly on your bed height, in some cases with a higher bed you will need a longer dovetail and ramps to get to the ground. If you're making flip over ramps and you'd like to add loading surface level with bed you'll need to keep some key points in mind.
The ramps cannot be the full dovetail length. (same length doesn't allow surfaces to mate level)
The front legs/feet on ramps must contact ground (only when weight applied) forward of ramps themselves. (if legs/feet are directly under the front of ramp, when the weight transfers from ramp to dove the ramps will lift up at the low end causing major damage to wheeled vehicles)
Ramps cannot contact ground when lowered to ground, the front legs/feet would stop ramp from getting into lowered position.
To determine the angle correct for dove, position your 2X4's at matching level of bed with opposing end on ground, Measure your angle. Mine worked out to be 15 degrees. All that matters is a balance between ramps and dove and you must get to the ground.
The perfect system isn't possible. You have compromises and are looking for the best compromise for your application... You can always use wood to compensate for needing to load irregular items. in fact, to load my forklift I will lay down 3/4 inch plywood on ramps and dove to make it smoother on small forklift wheels and distribute the weight better. To load my VW Passat (low to ground) I would need to raise the car with wood 3-4 inches and adjust ramps accordingly. So basically, my ramps are too steep to load cars. Trucks are a non-issue. Tractors, wheel loaders, rough terrain forklifts, manlifts and such would be perfect for loading. Lower ramps, drive on, chain and roll...
Been busy working people. Ramps completely installed with assist springs and primed. I'll come back to the install to share details about assist springs, solid hinge rod etc. I need to do bids for work. Also, I had all ramp diamond plate sheered to exact size for simplicity and will weld the sections on as time permits.
NOTE: Full spool of copper coated .045 welding wire ran out doing some final welding on ramp structures. (50 lb spool, all of it in trailer... I just loaded a spool of copper coated .035 (44 lbs)
and I'm enjoying it in relation to the .045, pleasant change...)
The ramps cannot be the full dovetail length. (same length doesn't allow surfaces to mate level)
The front legs/feet on ramps must contact ground (only when weight applied) forward of ramps themselves. (if legs/feet are directly under the front of ramp, when the weight transfers from ramp to dove the ramps will lift up at the low end causing major damage to wheeled vehicles)
Ramps cannot contact ground when lowered to ground, the front legs/feet would stop ramp from getting into lowered position.
To determine the angle correct for dove, position your 2X4's at matching level of bed with opposing end on ground, Measure your angle. Mine worked out to be 15 degrees. All that matters is a balance between ramps and dove and you must get to the ground.
The perfect system isn't possible. You have compromises and are looking for the best compromise for your application... You can always use wood to compensate for needing to load irregular items. in fact, to load my forklift I will lay down 3/4 inch plywood on ramps and dove to make it smoother on small forklift wheels and distribute the weight better. To load my VW Passat (low to ground) I would need to raise the car with wood 3-4 inches and adjust ramps accordingly. So basically, my ramps are too steep to load cars. Trucks are a non-issue. Tractors, wheel loaders, rough terrain forklifts, manlifts and such would be perfect for loading. Lower ramps, drive on, chain and roll...
Been busy working people. Ramps completely installed with assist springs and primed. I'll come back to the install to share details about assist springs, solid hinge rod etc. I need to do bids for work. Also, I had all ramp diamond plate sheered to exact size for simplicity and will weld the sections on as time permits.
NOTE: Full spool of copper coated .045 welding wire ran out doing some final welding on ramp structures. (50 lb spool, all of it in trailer... I just loaded a spool of copper coated .035 (44 lbs)
Sunday, April 3, 2016
ramps
Making ramps...4 inch channel main supports (3) @ 55 inches long... spaced 20 inches apart, total 40". Angle cut @ 40" 2 1/2" .25 wall angle crossmembers (9) spaced 5" apart (crest to crest) I used 3" channel for legs straight down from channel and miter cut foot ends to match feet squared on floor. (almost) By that I mean I took wooden shims and raised the front of one front channel foot and raised the rear of the other front channel foot. I'm no engineer, but it seems to me the feet shouldn't be identical in how they contact the ground, I believe they're more stable this way. Whenever I run into a situation where I don't know how to do something, I think of a guy smarter than me, then I think, what would he do...Heh! Obviously the front feet/foot of each ramp needs to be out further, (in front of) ramp surface to prevent ramps kicking up with weight on them, (actually at the weight transfer point from ramp to dove) and this brings into focus the issue of just how will the ramp feet clear the ground when raising or lowering... The ramps need to match the bed height when in travel position and they must be off the ground in lowered position, only coming into contact with ground when weight added to them such as when loading something... You can readily observe in my images that I put smaller legs and another foot behind the front legs/feet for additional support. Ramps are very heavy. In an attempt to save weight as much as possible without sacrificing strength, I'm adding diamond plate to bottom of ramps (flipped over on dove this will be the travel loading surface) and welding the angle cut ends of channel main supports to diamond plate to prevent twisting forces that would naturally occur during loading heavy equipment. (this is as opposed to adding more weight with structural crossmembers)
I need two sheets of 1/8" (nothing will be driving on ramps in travel position therefore 1/8" is sufficient) diamond plate for this because each surface is now 57"X 40". As well, I'm considering the difficulty in finding a shop with a large metal brake and braking the small end over the angle cut mainframe channel 3 or 4 inches for a nice starting surface for ramps... I may have the two sheets sheared at 57X40 and weld it for simplification and add a smaller piece of angle to top to finish starting surface, either way will look good... Of course I could brake the opposite end over the hinge side of the ramps far enough to add two additional tail lights. This would actually make more sense because with my current set up about 40% of my bumper lights will be covered by the 1 1/2 inch solid steel hinge rod... Who knew the ramps would be the most complicated part of the trailer? So there you have it, there are some variables, but anybody can get the general idea of how I did this and you can adjust yours to your own ideas or use mine... I'm including detailed images of my ramp side hinges, 3/4 X 2 1/2 inch, cut, mitered, welded, drilled 1 9/16" holes, cut off corners, rounded with grinder... First image is pattern for hinges required. I'll fabricate bumper side hinges today. Last two are ramps in progress. Have a nice day!
I need two sheets of 1/8" (nothing will be driving on ramps in travel position therefore 1/8" is sufficient) diamond plate for this because each surface is now 57"X 40". As well, I'm considering the difficulty in finding a shop with a large metal brake and braking the small end over the angle cut mainframe channel 3 or 4 inches for a nice starting surface for ramps... I may have the two sheets sheared at 57X40 and weld it for simplification and add a smaller piece of angle to top to finish starting surface, either way will look good... Of course I could brake the opposite end over the hinge side of the ramps far enough to add two additional tail lights. This would actually make more sense because with my current set up about 40% of my bumper lights will be covered by the 1 1/2 inch solid steel hinge rod... Who knew the ramps would be the most complicated part of the trailer? So there you have it, there are some variables, but anybody can get the general idea of how I did this and you can adjust yours to your own ideas or use mine... I'm including detailed images of my ramp side hinges, 3/4 X 2 1/2 inch, cut, mitered, welded, drilled 1 9/16" holes, cut off corners, rounded with grinder... First image is pattern for hinges required. I'll fabricate bumper side hinges today. Last two are ramps in progress. Have a nice day!
Sunday, March 27, 2016
Updates
Well now... No point in lying. I was anxious and a little worried to actually pull it. Fact is, I didn't really calm down until after I weighed it on the big truck scales, got a bite to eat and took a break...
I torqued all lug nuts, checked lights, checked breakaway system battery, put my gooseneck spider in my bed on rails, secured with pins, connected breakaway line, inspected all of the shackles, spring mounts etc. I greased all grease fittings. (jacks, equalizers, coupler) Set all air pressure to 80 psi and reversed and pulled forward braking numerous times. I drove around a 3 block circle and returned for inspection. Then I drove out to the four lane and hit it! I did keep my truck in 3rd instead of overdrive, we know the trailer is at least 6200 lbs. I didn't add welding wire and I didn't have the correct measurements on the dovetail angle 5/16 X 3, as well, the scales could be slightly off... I couldn't ascertain a correct intelligent answer as to what percentage are they guaranteed correct... Such is the world/time in which we live... I was so excited I have no idea what I paid for the two weighs... She pulls just as pretty as you please, my truck knows she's there, but just goes on... My happiest realization is that there is no jerking/bucking going on and I purposely hit potholes to investigate oddities. So, in light of that, I'd say the rigid frame and neck idea are an extreme success.
I torqued all lug nuts, checked lights, checked breakaway system battery, put my gooseneck spider in my bed on rails, secured with pins, connected breakaway line, inspected all of the shackles, spring mounts etc. I greased all grease fittings. (jacks, equalizers, coupler) Set all air pressure to 80 psi and reversed and pulled forward braking numerous times. I drove around a 3 block circle and returned for inspection. Then I drove out to the four lane and hit it! I did keep my truck in 3rd instead of overdrive, we know the trailer is at least 6200 lbs. I didn't add welding wire and I didn't have the correct measurements on the dovetail angle 5/16 X 3, as well, the scales could be slightly off... I couldn't ascertain a correct intelligent answer as to what percentage are they guaranteed correct... Such is the world/time in which we live... I was so excited I have no idea what I paid for the two weighs... She pulls just as pretty as you please, my truck knows she's there, but just goes on... My happiest realization is that there is no jerking/bucking going on and I purposely hit potholes to investigate oddities. So, in light of that, I'd say the rigid frame and neck idea are an extreme success.
Here are the scale tickets, as you can see; Steer axle is 3200 lbs. Drive axle is at 3820 lbs. and trailer axles are at 5160 lbs all while connected to truck.
Total is 12,180 lbs.
Then I dropped trailer on scales and weighed alone. At the jacks the trailer is 1880 lbs. At the axles the trailer is 4620 lbs.
Total trailer 6500 lbs.
I'd like to point out that I'm building ramps now, 40 inches wide each and they are very heavy, I'm guessing I'll be lucky if I can keep them at 300 lbs. each. I ordered 3 sets of assist springs, up and down is plan, I may adjust that number by necessity...
Also, as time/money permits I have every intention of removing 7k axles and replacing with 12k axles and running super singles rated at 6005 lbs each.
I pulled it roughly 46 miles all told and I plan to pull it again unladen on a nicer day with no rain in forecast. I've yet to finish priming and painting bottom of bed plate and painting the rest of the mainframe...I expect I'll get on those issues as work permits. I'm attempting to design and build ramps in the evenings/nights but I have to rest a little...
Good Day!
Sunday, March 6, 2016
Tunes
People I am so tired working 16-18 hours per day that I've just been dragging butt this morning, should be doing wiring, yet I am listening to music. Here are a couple I found recently that I'm fond of, I don't consume alcoholic beverages anymore but I can certainly relate well.
Neither of these recordings sound quality on a system (ie. I'm running a DJ mixing board, Crown amps and JBL M-Pro's (dual 15's, horns) switchable to Klipsch CF-3's...) however, on my little computer speakers (Klipsch THX) they actually sound fantastic...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qO3RIy7JB7s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McdA0aPQEUI
A good laugh!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMFY7RhzhDA
All Mickey Gilley...
Here is one that does sound fabulous on ANY system and can be really cranked up!!! I thrive on the horn parts!!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaUVLvhwwK8
Okay, that's enough goofing off, have a nice day...
Neither of these recordings sound quality on a system (ie. I'm running a DJ mixing board, Crown amps and JBL M-Pro's (dual 15's, horns) switchable to Klipsch CF-3's...) however, on my little computer speakers (Klipsch THX) they actually sound fantastic...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qO3RIy7JB7s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McdA0aPQEUI
A good laugh!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMFY7RhzhDA
All Mickey Gilley...
Here is one that does sound fabulous on ANY system and can be really cranked up!!! I thrive on the horn parts!!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaUVLvhwwK8
Okay, that's enough goofing off, have a nice day...
Thursday, March 3, 2016
DREADNOUGHT
Dreadnought definitions that suit me...
One that is among the largest or most powerful of its kind.
Fears nothing.
Big, Strong, Impressive, Awe inspiring.
Any large heavily armored battleship.
Heh!
One that is among the largest or most powerful of its kind.
Fears nothing.
Big, Strong, Impressive, Awe inspiring.
Any large heavily armored battleship.
Heh!
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